Our Hiking Tour group was – Alpaca
Expeditions. We had 3 Guides – Nilton, Adolfo, and Romario. Chef –
Walter who was absolutely amazing! Every meal was flavorful and
fantastic. 21 Porters to carry everything and prepare the campsites
each day. We had 14 hikers in our group and there was always a guide
close by. Really the guides were quite attentive and intuitive to our
needs. We frequently stopped for rest/photos and a brief history of
the area and/or the plant life.
Inca Trail Day 2: May 10 2022 Ayapata
to Chaquicocha about 16km, over 2 peaks highest elevation 13,779
feet. The morning hike was up 3,000 feet and then down 2,000 feet.
The afternoon was up about 1500 feet and then down about 1500 feet.
I started my day before the sunrise at 5am and ended after sunset
around 6:45pm. It was long, it was arduous but it was so beautiful.
The lead guide Nilton deemed myself and
a couple of others to be the more casual (slow) hikers so he asked if
we could wake up early and start about 30 minutes before the rest of
the group in the hopes that we would finish the hike by sunset. I
fully admit to being slower because I took a lot of breaks mostly to
catch my breath and drink water though if asked I was just taking in
all those 'breathtaking' views...
I started the day by taking a Diamox to
help with adjusting to the altitude change. The first uphill bit was
gorgeous. It was still night and we could hear the roar of the river
and nearby waterfall as we climbed over rocky steps. There wasn't
much in the way of flat areas and the steps were uneven and worn from
all the feet that pass over them. My personal goal - make it to Dead
Woman's Pass (13,779 feet) and not pass out.
Starting out:
We made it to Llulluchapampa the first
rest and photo stop in good time I was tired but still had a good
amount of energy. I was determined to snack often and drink water
more so this was a perfect spot for both. There were a bunch of
llamas milling about and I was very excited to get some photos!
The one on the left is a Llama and on the right is an Alpaca.
Llama!
The next section was rough for me. The
rock steps got steeper at times one step would come up past my knees
and I was more climbing up them than walking (silly short legs). My
walking sticks were an invaluable addition. The good news was the
cramps/muscle spasms from day 1 seemed to subside. Upon reaching the
high point aka Dead Woman's pass it started to sprinkle. I had enough
time to get a few photos of the overcast view and eat my snack before
it really started to rain. Everyone started getting their ponchos and
rain gear out and by the time I got mine out the rain had turned to
hail. It was cold. Everything was wet. But I didn't pass out and so I
continued my slow descent to the lunch stop.
We did have 1 person I our group who
passed out at the top but I was gone by the time she got there.
Hubby making that last climb to the first peak:
Sophi someone we met before the hike who was walking with a different group. We met up with her at almost every peak. This was before it really started to rain...
We made it to the peak! All dressed up ready to descend.
As I descended the first mountain I
began to feel quite dizzy. I had to really rely on my trekking poles
and watch every step I took. After a bit I realized it was likely
vertigo from the altitude which didn't help my mood much. I was very
grumpy, cold, wet, and now extremely dizzy. I quickly learned that If
I focused on the horizon or a fixed spot my dizziness was manageable
however the rocks were slick and I had to look down a lot to keep my
footing. Furthermore there were tons of porters coming down fast
behind me so I often would look back over my shoulder triggering
another wave of dizziness. Down was slow going. I was shaky and
lacked confidence in my footing and the rocks. I was depleting what
little mental energy I had quickly. It rained the whole way down with
only brief periods of sun. However, I made it and as I was walking
into our lunch camp my foot slipped on a rock and I fell. I wasn't
injured but I was embarrassed and felt utterly defeated. I ate lunch
and because of the rain there wasn't anywhere dry to just sit alone.
Lunch did help recharge my battery a bit and by the time we left camp
the sun was out again.
The second half of the hike was better.
I was still dizzy but I had learned better coping skills. The terrain
wasn't as steep and the sun was out. There was a small group of us
who stopped frequently took a lot of photos and had a decent time
chatting and distracting ourselves. There was a lovely lake right
before the second peak of Runkuracay. Then we descended and I ended
up slow enjoying the solitude and the sunset. Watching the sunset as
I hiked made the crazy, exhausting day worth it. I got to camp and
resisted the urge to just crash instead I left my pack in the tent
and ate a fabulous dinner while socializing with the group.
Vik and Ash right before we crested the second peak:
Made it to the second peak - Worth it!
Our little group descending the second peak.. These are some nice photos for perspective on the steepness of the hike. Bastian is about 2/3 of the way down
It just kept going down
The hardest climb for the most beautiful sunset:
However I would not dry out and I
discovered after dinner that my water bladder was leaking so my
backpack never dried out and the tent was wet. It was a very long,
very cold night. I slept thanks to double socks and the forethought
to bring an extra blanket.
Are we there yet?
Porters
Taking in the moment
